Today, the biggest benefit of a UV haze filter is to protect the front element of the camera lens. There is also haze correction, but the need for film for blue reduction is not the case with digital cameras. The bigger reason is that post-processing software today can filter out as much haze as the photographer desires, which no UV filter can do. The need for protection is real. Even if it means the front elements of your lenses don't get dirty or splattered, these filters play a role. I had this filter on when I made a misstep and splashed into a small river, soaking the camera. I felt much better about my clumsiness knowing I wouldn't have to face the delicate work of cleaning lenses when I got home. However, a filter in the light path must be of high quality, otherwise the image will be affected. I'm a long way from having a lab where I can test glass here. The best test I imagined was simple. I would take an identical image with and without a filter and then compare to see if I have any problems. Yes, it's raw, but it's what I have. Please see the image provided. To create this, I placed the camera on a tripod, set the exposure manually as a best estimate, and then took two images — one with and one without this filter. I took the RAW images, randomly cropped a portion of one and pasted it onto the other. Both are labeled. I then compared the two, focusing on the area where they were put together. I drew a black line at the approximate location of the join. I didn't do any post-processing. These are the RAW (DNG) images straight from the camera, converted to JPEG just for posting here. I did my best pixel peek on both images and didn't notice any distortion from this filter. In other words, it does exactly what I want and has now earned a spot on my lens.